Archives for June 2016

My sister and I arrived smoothly in Porto Alegre. Everyone said it would be freezing here because winters are cold in the South, but once I saw it would be between 50s and 60s, I was doubtful. That’s the t-shirt weather of early NJ springs. What no one explained was that the houses are made of cement or brick, so it’s even colder than being outside. And there’s no hot water. It’s seriously cold. Good thing Rio doesn’t really drop in temperature.

My dad has a nice house, but from the view of the window we can see poverty in the distance. My sister from the US insists that there are no favelas in Porto Alegre, but she hasn’t been around for a while. My brother jokes that we’re achieving danger at a level close to Rio’s. The economy is broken throughout.

My brother described how the head of the favela behind our house was put out, and now there are violent fights over control. The drug dealers pick locations they like and kick people out by setting their houses on fire. They somehow solved that problem in our block. He already made clear that he doesn’t think we should be outside at night, even in a car. Many people fear stopping at red lights after dark in fear of their cars being taken by people with guns. Needless to say, they’ve convinced me sufficiently to stay out of danger as much as I can. I learn how to be more careful by just being with them every day. But they do say my contacts in Rio should also warn me of the bad areas to be in.

As a side note, I noticed that there are less beggars here than those trying to sell trinkets, fruit, papers, or anything they can at red lights. I also got to see some workers fixing a stone road today, which was a lot simpler than I thought it would be. Pretty cool.

DO put lime juice on everything, just trust me.

 DON’T make the mistake of thinking buses in Oaxaca have designated stops. It’s a free for all. Just get up and stand near the door when you’re ready to get off.

DO try all seven moles (Negro, Rojo, Verde , Coloradito, Amarillo, Chichilo, and Manchamantel).

DON’T be closed minded about different perspectives

DO Say Hola! or Buenas Dias! to random people on the street. People in Oaxaca are very friendly and many enjoy striking up a conversation with a stranger

DON’T join protests.

DO visit Hierve el Agua.

DON’t take a mezcal shot, sip it if you want to live.

DO visit the art museums.

DON’T refuse food or drink, it’s considered rude.

DO try to speak as much Spanish as you possibly can. I’ve learned more in five weeks, than I have in five years of learning Spanish simply through conversing with people.

DON’T put toilet paper in the toilet!!! There is a basket next to the toilet in most cases. Oaxacan plumbing is very sensitive.

DON’T always assume no one speaks English.

DO realize mosquitos in Oaxaca are DEET resistant. You will get eaten alive, accept it.

DON’T be creeped out by the lack of personal space you will get, it’s a cultural thing.

DO visit the Zocalo.

DON’T be afraid of weird sounding foods like Chapulinas (cricket salsa). Most things end up being delicious.

DO go to Candela on a Thursday night.

DO bring Benadryl because of the previous DO.

DO try Tlyaduas. They will become your favorite thing ever!

DO bring a wide brimmed hat, and actually wear it even if you think it looks dumb.

DO the bike ride to El Tule (Be ware it is 12 miles though)

DO challenge yourself.

DON’T brush your teeth with tap water (always have bottled water nearby).

DO be aware if you’re black, people will stare unabashedly at you, but understand its curiosity not animosity.

DON’T pet the dogs on the street. Although they may be cute, they can be feral.

DO try lychee!

DON’T go to El Central by yourself, ever.

DO make lasting memories and international friendships to last a lifetime.

Our last weekend excursion was to Capulalpam, which is known as “Pueblo Magico” or Magic Town.  In the medical anthropology seminar I’m taking, we have been discussing medical practices of the indigenous groups of Oaxaca. Many people here have been using herbal remedies as opposed to prescribed pharmaceuticals for years. Not only are herbal remedies cheaper than pharmaceuticals, but also the people tend to view going to a doctor as a last resort. Everyone either knows or knows someone who knows an herbal remedy for most maladies; for those who don’t it is not uncommon walking down the street to see vendors selling the latest herbal cure.

Capulalpam is famous for its traditional medicine clinic which is why Capulalpam is sometimes called Pueblo Magico, and my class was lucky enough to get to visit. The traditional medicine clinic has everything from medicinal plant therapy to massages to the infamous temazcal. The temazcal is basically like a sweat lodge that “gives physical and spiritual purification using the four elements of fire, air, water and earth to give relief from the stresses of daily life”.  We had the opportunity to undergo a group temazcal, however I chose to skip the experience, so I can’t tell you personally what it’s like, but after talking to some of my friends who participated it seems like it is a very purifying experience that forces you to face a lot of stress that could contribute to physical sickness.

After our visit to the traditional medicine clinic we endured another somewhat, less-grueling hike to the site where they are currently building a new and updated traditional medicine. The new clinic is supposed to better serve the community, since the one my class visited is barely used by anyone anymore, with the exception of tourists. The contractor on site believes the building will be ready for use by December, and hopefully it will be beneficial to Oaxacans who come in need of treatment.

Before visiting Oaxaca, I kind of thought herbal medicine was a joke. I wondered why anyone would supplement something they could get from a licensed pharmacist, but people have been using herbal remedies for years. In fact in every ancient civilization people have had to learn what would heal them with whatever resources they had available to them. This information was then passed down to the next generation, so obviously there is some validity in folk medicine.

This visit was just yet another wake-up call, in addition to the several I’ve received during this trip that I need to get rid of my bias towards things that are different than what I’ve always known. I need to be more open and aware of the ideas of other cultures because I can stand to learn so much!